The Adriatic Sea is a part of the Mediterranean Sea between Italy and the Balkans, a sailing area left uncharted by for most of us until very recently. Yachting journalist Hans Brouwers has spent some fifteen summers exploring the region’s many islands and this year was surprised to find a fast-track modernisation process underway, with extensions to the yachting marinas and a growth in charter fleets. Is the Adriatic the new European Caribbean?

With 1185 islands and thousands of blue bays, the sunny Adriatic coast is one of the most beautiful sailing areas in the world. Countless channels and islands plus peaceful, sheltered seas mean an enormously diverse choice of cruising routes are available. In the 1980s, the increasing popularity of watersports in the Mediterranean Sea also caused an extraordinary growth in the number of harbour and charter facilities in the Adriatic. Unfortunately, due to the Balkans war, tourism came almost to a standstill and the charter fleets sailed on to Greece, Turkey and other popular destinations.

Recent years have seen a huge turnaround in Croatia. Many marinas, hotels, restaurants and ferries have been modernised to western standards and the country has once again become very hospitable to guests. Sailing is fast becoming a national sport and the government is working hard to provide safe anchorages in the untold bays and to stimulate pleasure sailing in the Adriatic Sea.

Anchoring in your own bay
Much has changed in the Adriatic over the past two decades. Almost without notice, the area has prepared itself to receive an enormous number of watersports lovers. Along the coast and on the islands there is now a wide selection of more than forty ultra-modern yachting harbours, some twenty one of which have been developed by the yacht marina chain Adriatic Croatia International club (ACI Club). More and more of these facilities now meet the strict international safety and environmental standards required to achieve European Blue Flag Marina status. And it is now possible to spend every evening of a three-week tour between Umag in the North (close to the Italian resort of Triest) and Dubrovnik in the far south of the country in a different ACI marina.  All have modern facilities such as water and power on every quay, a reception that provides all types of services and information, restaurants, shops, fuel stations, cranes and repair yards.  The prices are easily affordable in comparison to those found elsewhere on the Mediterranean Sea.

If you really want to discover the true character of the sailing area and its inhabitants, however, you will need to avoid the larger harbours as far as possible. In Croatia, you can almost always find a safe anchorage in your own uninhabited bay close to an island. A fantastic spot for swimming and snorkelling, and just a short tender ride away from a shallow harbour or a romantic fishing village. Once ashore, you can enjoy a walk while taking in the breathtaking views. There are wealth of stunning middle-aged churches to visit and quaint markets sell delicious fresh fruit and goat’s cheese. The local hostelries, known as Gostionas or Konobas, offer superb grilled fish dinners for a few Kuna, including a bottle of the surprisingly tasty local wine.

Three sailing areas
The Adriatic coastline is 3737 kilometres long with the islands adding a further 4130 km. The coast can be divided into three large sailing areas: North, Centre and South. The Northern Adriatic is comprised of the Istrië peninsula and the Gulf of Rijeka, along with the cities of Pula, Rijeka and Opatija, and the larger islands of Krk, Cres, Rab and Pag. Istrië borders Triest and used to be an entirely Italian territory. You’ll still hear a lot of Italian spoken here and the Italian influence is clearly visible in the classic buildings. A superb example is found in the
well-preserved Pula Coliseum, which dates from the first and second century and still hosts open air performances almost every summer. The ACI marina in Pula is located in a great spot next to the amphitheatre.

A few nautical miles to the North, next to the Broni islands and in the direction of Triest and Venice, is a peninsula and mountain upon which is built the historical old town of Rovinj. One of the finest examples of old Mediterranean architecture, Rovinj is only accessible via the three middle-ages city gates. Again, an ACI marina is in the right place!

Move a little further north and you’ll find the Limski Fjord, which stretches several kilometres inland. The mild and healthy climate along the east coast of Istrië (including the resorts of Opatija and Rijeka) was recognised centuries ago by the Austrian mobility as a wonderful place to reside, hence the many villas here. This scratch of water and the islands Cres and Losinj are nowadays renowned health resorts. The Italian coast and Venice are just one day sailing from the west of Istrië.

The central Adriatic is distinguished by the coastal resorts of Zadar, Biograd and Vodice, the old fortress town of Sibenik, the island of Murter, and a large number of small islands, including the Kornati Archipelago nature reserve. Past the impressive middle-age defensive towers, you can sail into the Bay of Sibenik and then cruise many nautical miles upstream following the course of the river Krka until you reach the Krka waterfalls. Here, the ACI Marina in Skradin offers a picturesque berth for a visit to a stunning nature reserve.

Another nature reserve, the Kornati islands, offers a very different picture. The many flat and uninhabited islands look fascinating and inhospitable in equal measure. The ACI marina at Piskera, opposite the island of Kornat, is one of the few inhabited places, although there are some amazing anchorages such as Lavsa Bay. Charter harbours are to be found on the island of Murter and in the coastal resorts of Zadar, Biograd and Moru.

Murter is a popular holiday destination in the summer, being just a stone’s throw away from the mainland and connected by bridge to the town of Tisno. Also renowned for its ancient olive and fig trees, Murter has many bays that cut deep into the land. It is very tourist-friendly and has a number of good campsites with shingle beaches. The exception is the sandy beach at Slanica on the northwest coast, one of the few such beaches in the whole of Croatia. Murter has no less than four yacht marinas: Hramina, Jezera (ACI), Tisno and Betina. There is a long walking promenade along the coast between Tisno and Jezera.  Also worth a visit are the many small churches as well as the 16th century church in the city of Betina.

The South Adriatic coastline starts at Sibenik and, via Split, ends at the striking old city of Dubrovnik. The island town of Trogir is well worth a visit, with its ACI marina and charter services. The larger islands of Hvar, Brac and Korcula  are very touristy. There are also ACI marinas on the islands of Milna, Vrboska, Korcula and Palmizana. Hvar is the longest island in the Adriatic, has the highest number of hours of sun per year and is also very pleasant in the winter. This island of vineyards, olive orchards and lavender is known as the Madeira of Croatia. The town of Vrboska is located in a long S-shaped inlet and its quaint buildings are a reminder that she has been here since the 15th century. An ACI marina is located close to the old centre.

Split was established way back in the year 300 by Emperor Diocletian, who had a palace built there. After his fall from power, it became a place of retreat for many Roman emperors and their families. The city has many well-preserved buildings and museums, plus several good harbours and facilities including an ACI marina with a large charter fleet. Further to the South is another stunning harbour city, Dubrovnik. You can sail right into the centre and the old city walls give the impression that time has stood still. Highlights in the old centre included the 15th century Bishop’s palaces. Like Split, Dubrovnik is renowned for its many cultural festivals, local dishes and its own wines. It is the most southerly point of Croatia – continue south and you'll soon find yourself at the Greek island of Corfu. To the West, on the other side of the Adriatic Sea, is the Italian harbour of Bari.

Warm climate and clear waters
Despite the fact that it has a depth of more than 100 metres, the Adriatic is a warm sea. In the summer the water temperature is between 23 and 25 degrees Celsius, slightly colder than the air temperature and suitably refreshing. The seawater remains warmer than the air temperature throughout the winter and is much warmer in the South than in the North, with a minimum temperature of 12 degrees. The water is also exceptionally clear with vision ranging between 16 and 56 metres.

Winds
The Adriatic Sea is often influenced during the winter by cold and dry North-easterly winds, the so-called bora, or the warm and humid jugo from the south. In the summer, the climate is dominated by light sea winds. During the day when the sun rises higher, there is a light Westerly maestral with a refreshing light burin wind in the evenings.

Stretching for hundreds of kilometres, the Adriatic Sea is ideal for people with a sense of adventure who appreciate tranquillity, nature and culture. It would take literally decades to experience all the beauties offered by this region. And only those who have cruised around this sailing area know just how perfect a yacht is for exploring the thousands of islands. What are you waiting for?

For more information on bare boat charter in Croatia:
internet: www.yachtshop.nl
email: info@yachtshop.nl
Phone: +31 (0)653 253 045

If you are interested in crewed yachts for charter, also contact:
Hans Brouwers on +31 (0)653 253 045

ACI can be contacted at:
Adriatic Croatia International Club
T: + 385  51  271 288
F: + 385 51  271 824
E-mail: aci-club@ri.tel.hr
Internet: www.aci-club.hr